https://wiki.ldraw.org/index.php?title=Stereoscopic_3D_Glasses_Tutorial&feed=atom&action=historyStereoscopic 3D Glasses Tutorial - Revision history2024-03-29T15:20:40ZRevision history for this page on the wikiMediaWiki 1.40.0https://wiki.ldraw.org/index.php?title=Stereoscopic_3D_Glasses_Tutorial&diff=4399&oldid=prevMichael Horvath: /* Step 4: Printing */2016-01-22T00:37:43Z<p><span dir="auto"><span class="autocomment">Step 4: Printing</span></span></p>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 4: Printing===</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 4: Printing===</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>After pressing the "Print..." button in StereoPhoto Maker, a new dialog will pop up allowing you to switch between printers, or configure the printer options. This is a good place to set your printer configuration by pressing the "Preferences" button. I suggest printing on photo paper at the highest quality your printer is capable of. The images are going to be small, so you want them to be as crisp and clear as possible. The images are going to be under magnification when you view them, so every flaw is going to be visible. Leave your printer in its default Portrait orientation. When you're done altering the printer configuration, press "Print". When your document is done printing, cut along the rectangular border surrounding the image. The result should be a card that is 7 inches wide and 3.5 inches tall, with the images themselves being roughly 3 inches by 3 inches.</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>After pressing the "Print..." button in StereoPhoto Maker, a new dialog will pop up allowing you to switch between printers, or configure the printer options. This is a good place to set your printer configuration by pressing the "Preferences" button. I suggest printing on photo paper at the highest quality your printer is capable of. The images are going to be small, so you want them to be as crisp and clear as possible. The images are going to be under magnification when you view them, so every flaw is going to be visible. Leave your printer in its default Portrait orientation. When you're done altering the printer configuration, press "Print". When your document is done printing, cut along the rectangular border surrounding the image. The result should be a card that is 7 inches wide and 3.5 inches tall, with the images themselves being roughly 3 inches by 3 inches<ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">, each</ins>.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope===</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope===</div></td></tr>
</table>Michael Horvathhttps://wiki.ldraw.org/index.php?title=Stereoscopic_3D_Glasses_Tutorial&diff=4398&oldid=prevMichael Horvath: /* Step 4: Printing */ note the size of the actual images2016-01-22T00:37:20Z<p><span dir="auto"><span class="autocomment">Step 4: Printing: </span> note the size of the actual images</span></p>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 4: Printing===</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 4: Printing===</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>After pressing the "Print..." button in StereoPhoto Maker, a new dialog will pop up allowing you to switch between printers, or configure the printer options. This is a good place to set your printer configuration by pressing the "Preferences" button. I suggest printing on photo paper at the highest quality your printer is capable of. The images are going to be small, so you want them to be as crisp and clear as possible. The images are going to be under magnification when you view them, so every flaw is going to be visible. Leave your printer in its default Portrait orientation. When you're done altering the printer configuration, press "Print". When your document is done printing, cut along the rectangular border surrounding the image. The result should be a card that is 7 inches wide and 3.5 inches tall.</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>After pressing the "Print..." button in StereoPhoto Maker, a new dialog will pop up allowing you to switch between printers, or configure the printer options. This is a good place to set your printer configuration by pressing the "Preferences" button. I suggest printing on photo paper at the highest quality your printer is capable of. The images are going to be small, so you want them to be as crisp and clear as possible. The images are going to be under magnification when you view them, so every flaw is going to be visible. Leave your printer in its default Portrait orientation. When you're done altering the printer configuration, press "Print". When your document is done printing, cut along the rectangular border surrounding the image. The result should be a card that is 7 inches wide and 3.5 inches tall<ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">, with the images themselves being roughly 3 inches by 3 inches</ins>.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope===</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope===</div></td></tr>
</table>Michael Horvathhttps://wiki.ldraw.org/index.php?title=Stereoscopic_3D_Glasses_Tutorial&diff=4397&oldid=prevMichael Horvath: /* Step 1: Using LDView */ mention L3P2016-01-22T00:35:57Z<p><span dir="auto"><span class="autocomment">Step 1: Using LDView: </span> mention L3P</span></p>
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<tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-side-deleted"></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">Note that L3P versions 1.3 and 1.4 both natively support stereoscopic views, so you may be able to skip some of the next few steps if you decide to go that route.</ins></div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 2: Using POV-Ray===</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 2: Using POV-Ray===</div></td></tr>
</table>Michael Horvathhttps://wiki.ldraw.org/index.php?title=Stereoscopic_3D_Glasses_Tutorial&diff=4391&oldid=prevMichael Horvath: /* Step 4: Printing */2016-01-21T21:31:12Z<p><span dir="auto"><span class="autocomment">Step 4: Printing</span></span></p>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 4: Printing===</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 4: Printing===</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>After pressing the "Print..." button in StereoPhoto Maker, a new dialog will pop up allowing you to switch between printers, or configure the printer options. This is a good place to set your printer configuration by pressing the "Preferences" button. I suggest printing on photo paper at the highest quality your printer is capable of. The images are going to be small, so you want them to be as crisp and clear as possible<del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">, considering that the </del>images <del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">will </del>be under magnification when you view them <del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">using your stereoscope</del>. Leave your printer in its default Portrait orientation. When you're done altering the printer configuration, press "Print". When your document is done printing, cut along the rectangular border surrounding the image. The result should be a card that is 7 inches wide and 3.5 inches tall.</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>After pressing the "Print..." button in StereoPhoto Maker, a new dialog will pop up allowing you to switch between printers, or configure the printer options. This is a good place to set your printer configuration by pressing the "Preferences" button. I suggest printing on photo paper at the highest quality your printer is capable of. The images are going to be small, so you want them to be as crisp and clear as possible<ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">. The </ins>images <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">are going to </ins>be under magnification when you view them<ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">, so every flaw is going to be visible</ins>. Leave your printer in its default Portrait orientation. When you're done altering the printer configuration, press "Print". When your document is done printing, cut along the rectangular border surrounding the image. The result should be a card that is 7 inches wide and 3.5 inches tall.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope===</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope===</div></td></tr>
</table>Michael Horvathhttps://wiki.ldraw.org/index.php?title=Stereoscopic_3D_Glasses_Tutorial&diff=4390&oldid=prevMichael Horvath: /* Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope */2016-01-21T21:29:47Z<p><span dir="auto"><span class="autocomment">Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope</span></span></p>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There are a number of different stereoscopes you can order to view classic stereo cards. The most famous is the Holmes stereoscope, which is basically a stick with a handle and a card holder on one end, and a leather shade on the other end. These run between $50 and $100 on Amazon. You can also buy a mirrored stereoscope that works with larger images. These can cost up to $500, so I don't recommend them. Instead, I recommend a very cheap cardboard stereoscope called the "Loreo Lite 3D Viewer". It costs less than $5 on Amazon at the time of this writing, and can be folded and mailed in an envelope. I have a pair of these, and they work quite well. (Again, I can't post a URL because the wiki software is blocking me.)</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There are a number of different stereoscopes you can order to view classic stereo cards. The most famous is the Holmes stereoscope, which is basically a stick with a handle and a card holder on one end, and a leather shade on the other end. These run between $50 and $100 on Amazon. You can also buy a mirrored stereoscope that works with larger images. These can cost up to $500, so I don't recommend them. Instead, I recommend a very cheap cardboard stereoscope called the "Loreo Lite 3D Viewer". It costs less than $5 on Amazon at the time of this writing, and can be folded and mailed in an envelope. I have a pair of these, and they work quite well. (Again, I can't post a URL because the wiki software is blocking me.)</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>However, some people don't require a stereoscope and are able to view stereoscopic images using just their eyes. One such method is called the "parallel" viewing method, and involves staring past the image into the distance as the two frames merge into a single image. Another is called the "cross-eyed" method, and involves crossing your eyes until the images merge. It is supposed to be easier<del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">. In </del>order to do this<del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">, however</del>, the left and right images need to be switched so that the left image is on the right side, and the right image is on the left side. (This can be done automatically in StereoPhoto Maker.) I was never able to accomplish either method, so I recommend sticking with the cardboard stereoscope.</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>However, some people don't require a stereoscope and are able to view stereoscopic images using just their eyes. One such method is called the "parallel" viewing method, and involves staring past the image into the distance as the two frames merge into a single image. Another is called the "cross-eyed" method, and involves crossing your eyes until the images merge. It is supposed to be easier <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">on the eyes, but in </ins>order to do this, the left and right images need to be switched so that the left image is on the right side, and the right image is on the left side. (This can be done automatically in StereoPhoto Maker.) I was never able to accomplish either method, so I recommend sticking with the cardboard stereoscope.</div></td></tr>
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</table>Michael Horvathhttps://wiki.ldraw.org/index.php?title=Stereoscopic_3D_Glasses_Tutorial&diff=4389&oldid=prevMichael Horvath: /* Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope */2016-01-21T21:28:53Z<p><span dir="auto"><span class="autocomment">Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope</span></span></p>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope===</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope===</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There are a number of different stereoscopes you can order to view classic stereo cards. The most famous is the Holmes stereoscope, which is basically a stick with a handle and a card holder on one end, and a leather shade on the other end. These run between $50 and $100 on Amazon. You can also buy a mirrored stereoscope that works with larger images. These can cost up to $500, so I don't recommend them. Instead, I recommend a cheap cardboard stereoscope called the "Loreo Lite 3D Viewer". It costs less than $5 on Amazon at the time of this writing, and can be folded and mailed in an envelope. I have a pair of these, and they work quite well. (Again, I can't post a URL because the wiki software is blocking me.)</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There are a number of different stereoscopes you can order to view classic stereo cards. The most famous is the Holmes stereoscope, which is basically a stick with a handle and a card holder on one end, and a leather shade on the other end. These run between $50 and $100 on Amazon. You can also buy a mirrored stereoscope that works with larger images. These can cost up to $500, so I don't recommend them. Instead, I recommend a <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">very </ins>cheap cardboard stereoscope called the "Loreo Lite 3D Viewer". It costs less than $5 on Amazon at the time of this writing, and can be folded and mailed in an envelope. I have a pair of these, and they work quite well. (Again, I can't post a URL because the wiki software is blocking me.)</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>However, some people don't require a stereoscope and are able to view stereoscopic images using just their eyes. One such method is called the "parallel" viewing method, and involves staring past the image into the distance as the two frames merge into a single image. Another is called the "cross-eyed" method, and involves crossing your eyes until the images merge. It is supposed to be easier. In order to do this, however, the left and right images need to be switched so that the left image is on the right side, and the right image is on the left side. (This can be done automatically in StereoPhoto Maker.) I was never able to accomplish either method, so I recommend sticking with the cardboard stereoscope.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>However, some people don't require a stereoscope and are able to view stereoscopic images using just their eyes. One such method is called the "parallel" viewing method, and involves staring past the image into the distance as the two frames merge into a single image. Another is called the "cross-eyed" method, and involves crossing your eyes until the images merge. It is supposed to be easier. In order to do this, however, the left and right images need to be switched so that the left image is on the right side, and the right image is on the left side. (This can be done automatically in StereoPhoto Maker.) I was never able to accomplish either method, so I recommend sticking with the cardboard stereoscope.</div></td></tr>
</table>Michael Horvathhttps://wiki.ldraw.org/index.php?title=Stereoscopic_3D_Glasses_Tutorial&diff=4388&oldid=prevMichael Horvath: /* Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope */2016-01-21T21:28:15Z<p><span dir="auto"><span class="autocomment">Step 5: Choosing a stereoscope</span></span></p>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There are a number of different stereoscopes you can order to view classic stereo cards. The most famous is the Holmes stereoscope, which is basically a stick with a handle and a card holder on one end, and a leather shade on the other end. These run between $50 and $100 on Amazon. You can also buy a mirrored stereoscope that works with larger images. These can cost up to $500, so I don't recommend them. Instead, I recommend a cheap cardboard stereoscope called the "Loreo Lite 3D Viewer". It costs less than $5 on Amazon at the time of this writing, and can be folded and mailed in an envelope. I have a pair of these, and they work quite well. (Again, I can't post a URL because the wiki software is blocking me.)</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>There are a number of different stereoscopes you can order to view classic stereo cards. The most famous is the Holmes stereoscope, which is basically a stick with a handle and a card holder on one end, and a leather shade on the other end. These run between $50 and $100 on Amazon. You can also buy a mirrored stereoscope that works with larger images. These can cost up to $500, so I don't recommend them. Instead, I recommend a cheap cardboard stereoscope called the "Loreo Lite 3D Viewer". It costs less than $5 on Amazon at the time of this writing, and can be folded and mailed in an envelope. I have a pair of these, and they work quite well. (Again, I can't post a URL because the wiki software is blocking me.)</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>However, some people don't require a stereoscope and are able to view stereoscopic images using just their eyes. One such method is called the "parallel" viewing method, and involves staring past the image into the distance as the two frames merge into a single image. Another is called the "cross-eyed" method, and is supposed to be easier. In order to do this, however, the left and right images need to be switched so that the left image is on the right side, and the right image is on the left side. (This can be done automatically in StereoPhoto Maker.) I was never able to accomplish <del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">this</del>, so I recommend sticking with the cardboard stereoscope.</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>However, some people don't require a stereoscope and are able to view stereoscopic images using just their eyes. One such method is called the "parallel" viewing method, and involves staring past the image into the distance as the two frames merge into a single image. Another is called the "cross-eyed" method, and <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">involves crossing your eyes until the images merge. It </ins>is supposed to be easier. In order to do this, however, the left and right images need to be switched so that the left image is on the right side, and the right image is on the left side. (This can be done automatically in StereoPhoto Maker.) I was never able to accomplish <ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">either method</ins>, so I recommend sticking with the cardboard stereoscope.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td></tr>
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</table>Michael Horvathhttps://wiki.ldraw.org/index.php?title=Stereoscopic_3D_Glasses_Tutorial&diff=4387&oldid=prevMichael Horvath: /* Step 1: Using MLCAD and LDView */2016-01-21T21:26:14Z<p><span dir="auto"><span class="autocomment">Step 1: Using MLCAD and LDView</span></span></p>
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<td colspan="2" style="background-color: #fff; color: #202122; text-align: center;">Revision as of 21:26, 21 January 2016</td>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>==Instructions==</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>==Instructions==</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="−"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #ffe49c; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 1: Using <del style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">MLCAD and </del>LDView===</div></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>===Step 1: Using LDView===</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The first thing you want to do is create your LDraw model in MLCad, LDCad, or whatever 3D modeler you prefer. When you are done, load your model in LDView and position your camera where you intend to view the scene from. In my case, I used the default camera orientation. When your camera is positioned properly, go to the "File > Export..." dialog, and export your model to a POV-Ray file. Again, I used the default settings, but you can change them to whatever you want to increase the render quality and so forth.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>The first thing you want to do is create your LDraw model in MLCad, LDCad, or whatever 3D modeler you prefer. When you are done, load your model in LDView and position your camera where you intend to view the scene from. In my case, I used the default camera orientation. When your camera is positioned properly, go to the "File > Export..." dialog, and export your model to a POV-Ray file. Again, I used the default settings, but you can change them to whatever you want to increase the render quality and so forth.</div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><gallery></div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><gallery></div></td></tr>
</table>Michael Horvathhttps://wiki.ldraw.org/index.php?title=Stereoscopic_3D_Glasses_Tutorial&diff=4386&oldid=prevMichael Horvath: /* Step 3: StereoPhoto Maker */2016-01-21T21:22:33Z<p><span dir="auto"><span class="autocomment">Step 3: StereoPhoto Maker</span></span></p>
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<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:Stereoscope 04.png|256px|thumb|right]]</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>[[File:Stereoscope 04.png|256px|thumb|right]]</div></td></tr>
<tr><td colspan="2" class="diff-side-deleted"></td><td class="diff-marker" data-marker="+"></td><td style="color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #a3d3ff; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div><ins style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">[[File:Ldr androbot mech new Both.png|256px|thumb|right]]</ins></div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><br/></td></tr>
<tr><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>StereoPhoto Maker is a freeware program designed to process left and right eye photographs and images into stereoscopic and anaglyph 3D images. You can download it from the Web. (I can't post a URL here since the wiki software is blocking me.) If you have anaglyph or red-cyan 3D glasses, you will want to create an anaglyph image. If you have a stereoscope, you will want to output a stereoscopic image. I recommend the latter since it will not mess up the image's colors like an anaglyph image will.</div></td><td class="diff-marker"></td><td style="background-color: #f8f9fa; color: #202122; font-size: 88%; border-style: solid; border-width: 1px 1px 1px 4px; border-radius: 0.33em; border-color: #eaecf0; vertical-align: top; white-space: pre-wrap;"><div>StereoPhoto Maker is a freeware program designed to process left and right eye photographs and images into stereoscopic and anaglyph 3D images. You can download it from the Web. (I can't post a URL here since the wiki software is blocking me.) If you have anaglyph or red-cyan 3D glasses, you will want to create an anaglyph image. If you have a stereoscope, you will want to output a stereoscopic image. I recommend the latter since it will not mess up the image's colors like an anaglyph image will.</div></td></tr>
</table>Michael Horvathhttps://wiki.ldraw.org/index.php?title=Stereoscopic_3D_Glasses_Tutorial&diff=4383&oldid=prevMichael Horvath at 21:16, 21 January 20162016-01-21T21:16:06Z<p></p>
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</table>Michael Horvath